Photo by Ian Ward
The Full Montenegro
"Someone challenged me to make a Montenegro tiki cocktail,” says cocktail consultant Brian Prugalidad.
It is one of the christening nights of the newborn Nolita Hall (2305 India St., Little Italy), a pizza-centric modern beer hall with a beautiful, big bar that is very much focused on Italian spirits, or as Prugalidad puts it: “Amaro-focused but approachable. Based heavily on classics, so people can recognize the cocktails, but with enough of a twist that people that drink classics regularly can find something interesting.”
It’s a hosted night so there is plenty of complimentary food, beer and wine, but cocktails were non-gratis. In spite of this, when I look around the majority of glasses in the room seem to be cocktails. Now, I’m not much of a believer in humanity at large, but I have found that most people in these types of parties are incredible frugal. I believe that, having gone through several restaurant openings myself, that given the choice between free or not free, the majority of the populace opts for the former. Hell, that’s to be expected in almost all situations. It takes something exceptional to move people to pay for something when they are also being given something equally as enjoyable for free. It better be fucking phenomenal or that would just be a silly thing to do.
Phenomenal is what Prugalidad’s drink menu at Nolita Hall is. Or, from what I’ve experienced, that menu is thoughtful, focused and exciting.
There’s a gorgeous Garibaldi variation with fluffy orange juice and an elegant Rome With A View cocktail that soothes you into any of the pizzas that crosses your path. However, the Full Montenegro was the one off of his menu that inspired me. It’s easier to make a menu of classics that you’ve been inspired by, but it’s truly impressive to take that and then inspire others based on your inspiration.
It was one thing for Andrea Del Vecchio to inspire Leonardo Da Vinci’s art, but it was quite another for Da Vinci to in turn influence the Wright brothers. Inspiration comes from all places, especially when you’re challenged.
I’m glad Prugalidad was challenged to make this tiki cocktail with Montenegro. It’s absolutely delicious. Coco Lopez Cream of Coconut and wine and amaro with lime. Who knew? It also showcases all of those things. Creamy and tropical, but with a long bitter, almost strong tea-like finish and a drying wine component. It’s delicious and inspired, and is well worth paying for.
The Full Montenegro
as prepared at Nolita Hall
1 1/2 oz. Montenegro Amaro
1 oz. pineapple juice
1/2 oz. lime juice
3/4 oz. Coco Lopez Cream of Coconut
Generous float of Lambrusco
Combine all ingredients except Lambrusco in a shaker tin with pebble ice. Whip and transfer to a Collins glass. Finish with a float of Lambrusco. Garnish with pineapple fronds and a cherry.